Glen Arbor Sun

January 17, 2008

Eating hearty to stay warm

By Jacob Wheeler
Sun editor

Just because the fudgies have taken the tourism season south for the winter — or maybe because of it — doesn’t mean those of you sticking around for gritty January-April can’t enjoy good food at the area’s local dining establishments.

Tim Barr reports that you’ll wait no more than 15-20 minutes, if that, for a table on two-for-one burger night at Art’s Tavern on Mondays from 5-9 p.m. As Tim says, “It’s an intimate gathering. This is how everyone gets to know each other during the winter.”

Haven’t gotten your weekly beef fill yet? Walk west through Glen Arbor to Boone Dock’s on Tuesdays for burger night, numero dos. Between 40 and 50 people sometimes show up to enjoy a burger, beverage and fries for $6.75. And come back on Sundays for Boone’s prime rib, starting at $13.75.

Do you pine for Provence this winter? No need to jump on a plane. Guillaume is offering a two-for-one special on Wednesday nights at La Bécasse (the French restaurant in Burdickville is open Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays), and seafood and a glass of Chardonnay for $17 on Fridays. C’est bon.

Start things off with a free cup coffee at the Foothills restaurant on Thursday mornings, and then come back to Burdickville for a notte Italiano at Funistrada, which offers two pasta dinners and a bottle of wine for $40 on Thursday nights, September-May.

Still in need of fine dining? The restaurant North, between Glen Arbor and Leland on M-22 will serve you dinner and wine for $23 on Fridays and a three-course dinner (soup, salad and entrée) for the same price on Sundays.

If love is on your mind and you need to score points with that special someone, take her (or him) to Maybings in Glen Arbor (open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday-Sunday) for Sweetheart Sundays. Buy your significant other a necklace and you’ll both eat dinner for free.

The neighborhood menu isn’t over yet. The Glen Lake Manor near the Narrows on Little Glen Lake offers $10 nightly specials, Thursday, Friday, Sunday and Monday. And the Empire Village Inn hasn’t left a single night unaccounted for when it comes to specials for the locals. Stop by after 5 p.m. for 25-cent Super Sliders on Mondays, dinner baskets for $6.50 on Tuesdays, 25-cent mini-tacos on Wednesdays, 25-cent chicken wings on Thursdays as well as $2 domestic drafts and open pool, smelt and fish fry for $7.50 on Fridays, all-you-can-eat pizza buffet for $7.50 on Fridays, and fried chicken dinner for $7.95 on Sundays.

The week’s over and you can’t possibly still be hungry!

Posted by editor at 02:13 AM | Comments (0)

Upnorthfoodies.com serves small slices of life

By Pat Stinson
Sun contributor

Paula McIntyre of Cedar was tired of hearing bad news about Michigan’s economy. She said most of the stories dominating the news have been reports from the southern regions of the state, where automakers and industry-related manufacturers are struggling or closing their doors. The barrage of gloomy stories especially annoyed her after she read a Michigan Land Use Institute (MLUI) “blog” by Andy Guy (“Great Lakes Guy”) that cited a University of Michigan study showing that positive things were happening in the state but not being reported.

“The gist was that we are selling stories about ourselves, and we can choose to tell the good stories, too,” said McIntyre, whose background is in journalism and web site design.

Born and raised in Traverse City, McIntyre spent five years in Ann Arbor working for the Great Lakes Commission as project manager of the Great Lakes Information Network (GLIN), an online source for regional environmental and economic information. McIntyre managed GLIN’s web design and worked with others to build partnerships with agencies and organization at all levels of government. One of her GLIN coworkers later became her business partner in Loracs Creations, Inc., a web development and design company.

Today, McIntyre spends a good deal of time at her Solon Township home, either on the computer or caring for her young son. She and her husband enjoy eating good, local food, and they have been members of community-supported agriculture (CSA) farms for several years. Her distaste for unrelenting negative news, her love of the region, her web expertise and her lack of daily connections with people finally found a positive outlet in www.upnorthfoodies.com, a blog for posting and reading comments about all things edible in northern Michigan.

“A whole lot of ideas were percolating … watching what’s going on with Michigan’s economy … needing an excuse to talk to people … places in Ann Arbor like the Earthen Jar, Tios Mexican Cafe with its wall of hot sauce, the chocolate croissants at Zingerman’s … wonderful (food-related) things happening here.”

Some of her inspiration for the upnorthfoodies.com website came from part-time resident and renowned chef Mario Batali’s donation of a cooking lesson for 12 that garnered $25,000 in a Leelanau Conservancy auction in 2006 and $67,000 in 2007, the Children’s House Montessori School commitment to serving fresh and nutritious foods, the MLUI’s program to connect local farms with schools, and the increasing number of area CSAs.

“I wanted to create a community website and thought it would be cool to have a site that brings it all together.”

McIntyre enlisted the help of her sister, Ann Drury, also a Traverse City resident and a regular blogger on the site.

“She’s a wonderful cook,” McIntyre said. “She’s one of those people who would have nothing in her refrigerator and could make an awesome meal.”

Last September, McIntyre attended the second annual Epicurean Classic (co-founded by former Glen Arbor and current Traverse City resident Matt Sutherland), to talk to people about the idea of a website for northern Michigan foodies. She received good feedback.

“I was still stewing on the idea when three times in the same week I was asked if I was Kathy Gibbons (Traverse City Record-Eagle reporter and columnist).”

That clenched it. Upnorthfoodies.com was launched on October 1— a season McIntyre said might have been ill timed as the harvest was winding down.

“It was easier to find things (to write about) in December than I thought it would be,” she said with a laugh while sharing a list of topics for the fall and winter months, including canning, shopping for local holiday gifts, food and wine events and seed ordering.

What McIntyre would really like to see on the site is more posts from people willing to share a “slice of their life” as a cook, canner, baker, owner or employee of a food establishment, grower, farm worker—anyone who spends time planning, growing, harvesting, preparing or eating local food and drink.

“A lot of people sign up as foodies, not as posters,” she explained. “This is available for them to share a slice of life, to write about a day in their life or to do a little promotion to establish their expertise. For instance, Brian Hosmer, the winemaker at Chateau Chantal (I loved his post) wrote about the Ice Wine harvest, what it entails. I had no idea…”

Since all posts are archived and searchable, the site is poised to become a valuable online resource for sharing regional food experiences. McIntyre and Drury have received encouragement and publicity from Andy McFarlane of Absolute Michigan and Leelanau.com, Rick Coates of the Northern Express magazine, and the owners of the coffee company Higher Ground Trading Co. The latter wrote on its website: “Check out the charming aesthetic and useful content of their new blog (and sign up as a contributor). It’s a great way to support our local farmers and food purveyors.”

As content on the upnorthfoodies.com site grows, McIntyre said they will look more seriously for sponsors. For now, she would appreciate input from potential sponsors on how best to present their information on the site. As for her time and expense thus far, McIntyre would only say, “It’s a labor of love.”

Posted by editor at 01:45 AM | Comments (0)

November 08, 2007

Southern Pie-in-the-Sky

By Pat Stinson
Sun contributor

Just arrived — our last, weekly CSA (community-supported agriculture) bag of fresh booty from Black Star Farms. It’s a monster, too. Hefty packages in past weeks have revealed a Christmas-like surprise beneath the eggs, parsley, chives, lettuce, spinach, corn, carrots and tomatoes. Sometimes, a portion of a giant watermelon, a whole cantaloupe or a sweet honeydew melon would wait at the bottom. Other times, when the harvest was light or the bug infestation too severe, (members of a CSA are asked to share the “risk” of acts of nature, as well as the rewards), a bottle of fine BSF wine or a huge hunk of Leelanau Raclette Cheese would be the buried treasure.

Not this week.

The heftiest part of fall’s last harvest is the most puzzling to prepare: sweet potatoes. Unlike the giant bags of tomatoes, onions and cucumbers that my better half learned to can this summer, Dixieland’s favorite root vegetable doesn’t seem a likely candidate for the pantry.

It’s shameful, but it doesn’t help that one-half of the household heritage hails from Walnut Ridge, Ark. Great-grandmother Myrtle, “Mama Myrt,” served a side of mashed sweet potatoes with her famed chicken and dumplings for servicemen and townsfolk who frequented her boarding house during World War II. Her daughter, Marie, “Gramma Ree,” moved to Keego Harbor, Mich., after the war and preferred to make raisin pie. Her daughter, Betty Sue, only learned to make sweet potato pie after working in the Cass Corridor of Detroit, shortly before her retirement. Her youngest daughter never liked the candied sweet potatoes served at Thanksgiving and Christmas and shunned the spud for years.

No, the apples falling from our southern family tree were more like World Series pitches.

The question of what to do with these hypoallergenic “apples of the earth” remains a mystery. We refuse to add sugar; the spuds are already sweet, thank you. A quick search of my neighbor’s “upnorthfoodies.com” website led to a cookbook with recipes for stealth cooking with vegetables … and an idea for sweet potato French toast that calls for all of a third of a cup. Not too helpful.

Allergy Cook Margaret Crook has taught us how to bake sweet potato pudding for breakfast, steam sweet potatoes with apples on pork for dinner, and fry sweet potato slices as snacks. Ms. Chard, an Upper Peninsula gardener, delighted us with her recipe for sweet potato casserole in the cookbook, “Hollyhocks & Radishes.” But, really, how many sweet potatoes can two people eat?

If an edible solution for our five orphaned pounds isn’t found soon, a sweet potato homebrew is likely to appear in the cellar next March.

Spuds, anyone?

Posted by editor at 03:39 PM | Comments (0)

September 13, 2007

Making jelly from Wild Fox Grapes

By Judith Kalter
Sun contributor

The best way to learn to cook is in your grandmother’s kitchen. My grandmother, Mary Ellen Senter Harrison Hoegraver Noe, always encouraged her six grandchildren to help out by punching down the yeasty fragrant bread dough before she fried it up in a big cast iron skillet or let us sit atop the kitchen table and watch her at work.

As children we always knew where the food on our table came from; the garden out back, the chicken coop for eggs and Sunday dinner and sometimes the rabbit hutch for special occasions. One Easter she made the mistake of serving rabbit. When we protested, she adamantly claimed that this chicken just had a lot of breast meat and tiny little drumstick legs. We ate up!

Unfortunately for most children and many adults today, where the food on their plate comes from is a complete mystery. Yet here in Leelanau County, residents have the luxury to choose their food right from the farmers who grow or raise it; at roadside stands or organic food markets. Many locals grow their own gardens complete with herbs to further enhance the flavor of fresh tomatoes and zucchini. I also enjoy gathering food from the wild to add to my pantry selections and satisfy some primitive yearning.

When I relocated to Leelanau County, I tried to recreate some of the wonders of the time spent “Up North.” My grandmother was raised in St. Ignace in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. She would often return in the late summer to help my great-grandmother can goods to insure that the bounty of summer would provide during the lean days of winter that were sure to follow.

Fall seemed the perfect time to relive a long-treasured memory; making jelly from the abundant wild grapes that grew in my great-grandmother’s yard in St. Ignace. The intense aroma of the burgundy juice boiling away on her massive wood stove stays with me still.

The land and the food it provided was such a part of my parents’ and grandparents’ lives. One way for me to keep my connection to them alive is through the land surrounding my home. Between the deer and the shade of my home in the woods there is little space for a garden, but there are acres of parkland available in the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, the local branch of the National Park Service, to forage for wild edible foods. The hunting for and gathering of these seasonal delights is a connection to my past that is a pleasure to nurture.

Recently Mr. Darcy, my Soft Coated Wheaton Terrier, and I walked the Empire Bluff Trail in search of Wild Fox Grapes. We were rewarded by finding garlands of the purplish black, bloom frosted clusters right next to the pathway. On a recent vineyard tour, I had noticed that the grape clusters were all strategically placed between wires in a row, convenient for harvesting, about three feet off the ground. Not only were these grapes within reach, but the area was clear of Poison Ivy. Although most of the clusters were well beyond our reach on tentacles climbing high into the treetops, I was able to pick my limit of one gallon of the fruit with little help but much diversion from my feisty four-footed friend and the passersby he inevitably attracts.

Many of the hikers questioned what I planned to do with the sour-tasting fruit. The grapes are less tart as they ripen on the vine, but it is best to pick them before or right after the first frost or the juice becomes difficult to gel. Whenever I gather food from the wild I am mindful to leave most for the animals and birds, who are totally dependent on nature’s food source for survival while I enjoy the found foods as accents to what I can buy at markets and roadside stands.

Wild Fox Grapes; even their name is not ordinary and sounds adventurous. Leelanau vintner, Larry Mawby of Suttons Bay told me that the name comes from their intense fruity flavor and aroma, which was called “foxy” hundreds of years ago. He stated that these Wild Fox Grapes were “vines either planted by early settler or descended from them. They are partially Vitis labrusca. This species has given us the staple of grape jelly, the Concord Grape.”

The gathering of the grapes on a sunny Fall day surrounded by their red and yellow leaves is a delight that far exceeds the tedious chore of painstakingly removing the grapes from their stems. I follow the tradition of removing the grapes one at a time from the stem and having the purple hands to prove it. After cleaning the grapes, they are simmered in water until the skins pop, releasing a marvelous aroma that fills the house. For me the most difficult part of the jelly-making process is pouring the hot grape liquid into an old muslin pillowcase reserved only for this use. Once the juice is securely tied into the pillowcase, I hang it from a broomstick, balanced over my turkey-roasting pan in the bottom of the utility room sink.

The next morning the fun resumes. Using my grandmother’s method, I measure out only grape juice, sugar and a little lemon juice — no processed fruit pectin. I bring this mixture to a boil in a heavy kettle, reduce the flame and simmer it until it reaches the jelly stage. This is the point when the hot liquid on a metal spoon will drip onto a sheet in two or three thick drops as opposed to one thin stream. A candy thermometer helps determine this since it is critical for the jelly to “gel” to the desired consistency when cool. The jelly stage is reached at 220 degrees Fahrenheit or 8 degrees above the boiling point.

I carefully pour the scathing hot jelly into jars that have already been sterilized and placed upside down on a clean linen towel. By this time the wonderful aroma from the fruit has permeated the entire house and anyone nearby has assembled in the kitchen to “help” clean out the still hot kettle. Pouring a thin layer of hot melted paraffin on top is the final step.

For days I will enjoy seeing these jars on the kitchen counter before finally moving them to the pantry. In winter I will remember the days spent gathering the fruit and making the Wild Fox Grape Jelly. Foods not manufactured on a factory assembly line hold a special allure for people today so I will either generously share the jars as gifts or more judiciously as a dollop atop my Thumbprint Cookies. Either way it will offer me the opportunity to retell the stories of my Grandmother’s kitchen.

Wild Fox Grape Jelly

Proportions:
1 Cup grape juice (see below)
¾ Cup sugar
1 Tb. lemon juice

Combine these ingredients in a large kettle. Bring mixture to a full rolling boil then turn down heat to maintain a full simmer. Cook until it reaches jelly stage 220 degrees Fahrenheit or when two or three drops at the edge of a spoon slides off in a sheet. Pour the grape jelly into previously sterilized glass jelly jars and seal immediately with melted paraffin.

This amount makes about two glasses.

Grape Juice From Fresh Grapes

Wash off the grapes and drain in a large colander. Pick off the grapes from the stems. Be sure to include several still under ripe ones. These will help the jelly to jell. If you are lucky enough to get a quart of grapes ad the same amount of water and place with two small green apples that have been quartered but not peeled in a large heavy kettle. Hopefully while gathering the grapes you also came cross an apple tree. These apple will help the juice to jell.

Bring the mixture to a full boil then simmer for 20-30 minutes or until the skins pp. Give the mixture a hearty stir and pour into a jelly bag (I use an old cotton pillow case). Hang the bag overnight so the juice can slowly drip into a large bowl. The Musk, pulp left in the bag can be used to make Grape butter and can also be the beginning of Balsamic Vinegar.

Daily quantity permitted per person from the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

Apples one bushel
Asparagus one gallon
Blackberries one gallon
Black walnuts one gallon
Chokeberries one gallon
Elderberries one gallon
Serviceberries one gallon
Mushrooms (edible any species)one gallon
Pears one bushel
Plumbs one gallon
Raspberries one gallon
Rhubarb one gallon
Rose hips one gallon
Sand cherries one gallon
Peaches one gallon
Strawberries one gallon
Grapes one gallon

Thumbprint Cookies

Oven 350 degrees
Cream together: ½ C real butter
¼ C brown sugar
Add: 1 egg yolk (keep the egg white to use later)
½ tsp. Vanilla
Stir in: 1C flour
Pinch salt
Chopped nuts
Wild Fox Grape Jelly

Chill the dough for 30 minutes then roll into one-inch balls. Dip the balls into the slightly beaten egg white and roll in the finely chopped nuts. Using your thumb, make an indentation into the center of each cookie and then fill with one teaspoon of Wild Fox Grape Jelly. Bake 8 min. or until golden brown.

Posted by editor at 11:19 AM | Comments (0)

August 23, 2007

Ah! Sunflowers

By Holly Wren Spaulding
Sun contributor

For gardeners and farmers, summer is partially understood in terms of what is coming ripe at what time, so early on there are sugar snap peas and eventually fresh garlic, and eventually tomatoes and squash and soon there will be melons. We know where we are in the season based on what is coming ripe in the fields. At this time of year I’m mainly paying attention to the flowers, which I helped to transplant into the ground last spring. What began as long rows of tender seedlings has exploded into profusions of color and fragrance.

For flower growers, summer starts with peonies and lilies and progresses with zinnias and snapdragons. By early August, we begin to see the first sunflowers unfurling their bright petals in the jungles of stalks and rustling where they have been steadily reaching toward the sky for months.

These are by far the most beloved of the flowers we grow for sale and yet their arrival is a moody event for many of us on the farm. Their appearance carries with it the realization that we are ever so gradually leaning toward fall, and we begin to be aware that summer is winding down and we lament that the number of beach days is on a decline rather than an increase.

In a small act of defiance, we don’t cut the first flush of sunflowers as if to spare anyone else noticing that the days are getting a little shorter and the light is bending differently across the fields. In early August, we reason that other people—those who buy flowers—will be similarly ambivalent about the appearance of these emblems of late summer, and so we spare them for a week or so, focusing on a baudy palette of mixed flowers.

But now, my fellow flower girls and I are in the sunflower patch for several hours a day, looking each bloom in the face before we cut and gather what we find into tall buckets to take to market. The bees are in there with us, buzzing away, and increasingly zealous. Our afternoons pass to the hum of thousands of pollinators who dive head first into the flowers, sometimes sticking in the sweet center where some of them will die decadently.

A customer at Hansen’s Supermarket in Suttons Bay was buying sunflowers recently and asked why some of the blooms face straight up toward the sky, while others face to the side or even bend a little in odd directions. She wanted to know if they track the sun as it travels across the sky. Jenny Tutlis, on whose farm I work, explained that sunflowers we are cutting always face the rising sun. The question may come from the fact that young sunflowers in the budding phase exhibit heliotropism, which is to say, they follow the sun throughout the day. As they mature, those motor cells in the flexible segment of the stem just below the bloom, firm up and no longer move from east to west as the sun does.

Our own awareness of what is happening up above is shifting around right now. After the spectacular Perseid showers on the weekend of August 12th, I sense a shift in the cosmos, as if those meteors were relics of summer, falling, falling away into the lakes whose surfaces have become choppier. Now the sun slants somewhat starkly and the winds have kicked up the way they do every year at this time, preparing the waters for surfers and cooling off the land temperatures. Indeed, summer is drawing to a close.

Lately I’ve been revisiting Georgia O’Keefe’s life and art. While reading about her fascination with painting large portraits of flowers, I came across a remark she made in 1976 about this practice of looking closely at subjects so often beneath the notice of others. She said, “A flower is relatively small. Everyone has many associations with a flower — the idea of flowers. You put out your hand to touch the flower — lean forward to smell it — maybe touch it with your lips almost without thinking — or give it to someone to please them. Still — in a way — nobody sees a flower — really — it is so small. So I said to myself — I’ll paint what I see — what the flower is to me but I’ll paint it big and they may be surprised into taking time to look at it — I will make even busy New Yorkers take time to see what I make of flowers.”

I often bring home leftover flowers from the farm and have them around the house, brightening up the dark corners and sweetening up every room. I like to give them away as well and it seems a tremendous joy to bestow upon someone; a simple gesture that always elicits pleasure. Even the slightly bedraggled zinnias or sunflowers missing a petal or two are sure to bring pure happiness to someone who has just spent the day wrangling small children or driving back and forth from an indoor job. Like the poet Mary Oliver so aptly puts it, we should all get closer to these things of beauty when we can for “each of them, though it stands/ in a crowd of many/ like a separate universe,// is lonely, the long work/ of turning their lives / into a celebration / is not easy. Come // and let us talk with those modest faces, / the simple garments of leaves, / the coarse roots in the earth / so uprightly burning.”

Posted by editor at 11:10 AM | Comments (0)

A slice of heaven in Chef Gene’s kitchen

By F. Josephine Arrowood
Sun contributor

This summer, area residents and visitors alike have been making pilgrimages to the Cedar City Market, where they are embraced by the warmth of freshly brewed coffee, cinnamon rolled into golden pastries and nourishing, seasonal soups, all created by Chef Gene Payerk. He entered the culinary world less than a decade ago, but has already established a loyal following throughout Leelanau County with his disturbingly delicious desserts and other palate-pleasers.

“I like ‘scratch’ cooking,” relates the quiet, trim man in the crisp white jacket who has presided over Chef Gene’s Kitchen since the end of April. “When I make sandwiches, I could just use the bread here [in the store]. I’d rather make the two-day dough, roll it out three times — in my mind, that makes it a little better, a little fresher.” He continues, “With fast food, there’s a whole generation that didn’t learn to cook from their parents; it’s gratifying to be able to have that knowledge,” and to pass the results on to his appreciative customers.

His cinnamon rolls, bedecked with dried cherries and walnuts, and lightly drizzled with frosting, fly out the door each morning. Architect-builder Dale Scheiern of Cedar delivers his verdict as he reaches for a warm pastry on the store’s big wooden counter: “They’re a unique cinnamon roll; the dough is more croissant-like, with a flaky texture. Gene doesn’t need to rely on frosting to cover it up and give it its flavor.”

Shari Rosinski of Maple City also stops in regularly on her way to work. “It’s the best cinnamon roll in the county,” she declares, gathering enough treats for herself and the 10 women with whom she works at Bahle’s in Suttons Bay.

Other offerings from Chef Gene’s Kitchen include pies with jewel-toned fruits that wink from vents in flaky, hand-rolled crusts, buttery croissants, sandwiches and wraps, and breads that include sourdough, wheat, sourdough rye and dill parmesan. Soups are created fresh daily with mostly local ingredients like wild leeks, morels and asparagus; varieties include beet borscht, roasted garlic potato, cream of broccoli, beef barley and his popular clam chowder every Friday. He welcomes special pastry orders, including birthday cakes, and at customers’ requests has recently launched a delicious Balaton cherry pie made with the sugar-substitute Splenda.

Gene grew up downstate in Warren, a blue-collar, largely Polish enclave on Detroit’s east side with strong ties to the auto industry. After high school, he began work in a factory that created prototypes, such as brakes, for automobile parts companies like Bosch. He also attended Macomb Community College, earned three degrees in the industrial-manufacturing field, and eventually became a manager at his plant.

Seven years ago, at age 35, doctors discovered a life-threatening heart defect that would sideswipe Gene’s steady career, and set him and his family on a course that would ultimately lead to a new, more nurturing life in northern Michigan. After surgery to replace his faulty aortic valve (a congenital condition), and then an endocardial infection that necessitated another valve replacement, Gene faced a year of recuperation, and some hard choices. He quit his manufacturing job, and enrolled in the Macomb Culinary Institute, where he immersed himself in classes that included cooking basics and history, as well as specialties in baking and pastries.

He and his wife Joan, a mammogram technician, also made a momentous lifestyle decision. The couple had honeymooned in Leelanau, and dreamed of someday retiring to their favorite vacation destination. Suddenly, “someday” was now, and in 2005 the Payerks and their two children moved to an 11-acre farm in Centerville Township. There they cultivate 800 viniferous grapevines, asparagus and 80 fruit trees, including cherries, Honeycrisp apples, Asian pears and Red Haven peaches. The family also plans to convert a post and beam barn, restored by Joe Fabiszak of Cedar, into a bed-and-breakfast someday.

Out of the kitchen, Gene enjoys his 1950 Ferguson tractor on the farm, boating on Lake Leelanau, and beach time at Good Harbor with his family. Even with all of the hard work — the chef is in his kitchen at the Cedar City Market every day (most mornings by six a.m.), and also sells his goods at the weekly Glen Arbor and Suttons Bay Farmers Markets — life in Leelanau looks as heavenly as a slice of his cherry pie.

The Glen Arbor Farmers Market continues through August 28, and the Suttons Bay Farmers Market through October 6. Chef Gene can be reached at Cedar City Market at 228-5415.

Posted by editor at 10:33 AM | Comments (0)

July 26, 2007

Sylvan Inn on cutting edge of reducing ecological footprint

By Ian Vertel
Sun contributor

Several businesses in Glen Arbor are making efforts to reduce their impact on the environment, thereby contributing to the evolution of commerce that is concerned with effect on the planet as well as profit and customer service. For instance, Great Lakes Tea and Spice Company does not use air conditioning; Art’s Tavern emphasizes recycling and uses environmentally-friendly products, and the Leelanau Coffee Roasting Company has replaced much of its technological equipment and machinery with more energy-efficient alternatives as well as changed incandescent lighting to fluorescent bulbs. But the Sylvan Inn, owned and operated by Rose and Ralph Gladfelter, has made the most progress in synthesizing profit and green innovation.

Purchased in June of 2000, Rose and Ralph dreamed a vision for the Inn to exist in harmony with the planet. Coming from a small community in Colorado, they “learned most of their principles of recycling in that community,” which came out of necessity — not wasting something that could be used again and conserving energy. Furthermore, the 1970s sowed the seeds of environmental priority in their minds, as this was a time of “heightened awareness,” explains Rose.

Originally, the Sylvan Inn had no dishwasher, no washer and dryer, and also presented other challenges, due to its age of over 120 years. But this “gave us the opportunity [to make changes]” says Rose. Implementing unity between an Energy Star and Energy Efficient dishwasher and washer-dryer, they began to shape the Inn to match their ideals. They soon realized that they “were using less water than hand washing,” explains Rose. They attached a mesh filter for the water to run from the washers into another sink with an automatic pump, which allows clean water to flow into the drain field without any solid wastes and without the use of excessive energy.

“A lot of things we did at first came naturally,” says Rose, such as “using products with post-consumer waste.” A new roof was also installed on the Inn to “make it tighter” which prevents the loss of cool or warm air, reducing the need for heating or air conditioning. Following this mentality of conserving energy, the Inn offers a community refrigerator “instead of individual refrigerators,” SHE explains, “[because] given the opportunity, people will respond.” There are also programmable thermostats in the rooms to reduce the use of unnecessary energy for heating or cooling, and the lights are on timers to prevent the waste of electricity.

In the beginning, “we didn’t have a whole lot of money,” remembers Rose, so they made improvements “when we could afford to do it right.” These small improvements took form in a variety of ways, such as when fluorescent light bulbs replaced many of the electricity-devouring incandescent bulbs. While Rose calls the process of change a collection of “baby steps,” the principles of recycling and waste reduction have always existed at the Inn, as well as purchasing products locally.

“We try and buy Michigan whenever we can,” says Rose. A lady in Walled Lake makes a cleaning product for the Inn called “Germs Be Gone” that utilizes the antibacterial and antiseptic properties of lavender oil. And to reduce the amount of packaging and plastic, she refills the containers after Ralph and Rose use them. “I would clean everything with white vinegar if I could,” laughs Rose, “but then it would smell like a giant salad bowl!” Ralph and Rose also use micro fiber cleaning cloths, which feature a “super tight weave,” which “[we] can use without cleaning products.” This alternative replaces paper towels, and they have had the “same rags for eight seasons, and are as strong as ever.” The same micro fiber technology is also used for their mops, which use white vinegar instead of callous floor cleaners.

Even the gardens AT the Sylvan Inn represent its green focus. “[We] have irrigation on timers” that water twice a week, says Rose. The flower beds are watered with a soaker hose when needed, insuring that water is not wasted or used in excess. No pesticides or chemicals are used on the lawn or gardens, native plants are used for beautification, and compost replaces harsh fertilizer. Upon discovering peat pots, Rose and Ralph continuously re-use them, which eliminates the need to dispose of plastic pots that cannot be recycled. The hanging plant baskets on the porch are also watered by a drip line, which feeds the necessary amount of water when necessary, rather than constant, superfluous watering.

Along with their ideals and dreams of an eco-friendly establishment, Ralph and Rose are “going for Green Lodging Michigan Certification,” says Rose. There are three levels of certification, and “it takes a year to get certified; the state did a great job with this.” In the process of this certification, “(the state wants) to see you reduce output by five percent on most items,” she explains. An employee of the Sylvan Inn, Hannah Clark, is acting as the liaison with the state to facilitate the application process and the mandated energy audits. Unfortunately, “not many places are in the application process,” says Rose. Nevertheless, both Rose and Ralph are filled with excitement just being on the brink of certification. “We’ve made substantial progress,” says Rose. And even the smallest details greatly contribute to this progress. Nothing is thrown away at the Inn, and disposable amenities, such as bars of soap or travel-size shampoo bottles, are replaced by refillable dispensers of soap, lotion and shower gel in the bathrooms.

As progressive changes continue, Rose explains that “half the battle is just doing the research. If I find something I like, I use it first.” Then, if the product passes the test in efficiency and fulfills the Inn’s mission, it is offered to guests. As Ralph and Rose pursue Green Lodging Certification, they continue to create an atmosphere of community and environmental balance, discovering ways to further reduce the Inn’s ecological footprint.

Read about the history of the Sylvan Inn in our online archives at http://www.glenarborsun.com/archives/2003/06/history_of_the.html

Posted by editor at 02:05 AM | Comments (0)

June 28, 2007

Locals living ‘off the grid’

By Ian Vertel
Sun contributor

As our consciousness shifts toward developing more sustainable practices of living with the Earth, rather than simply on the Earth, local northern Michigan residents are answering the call. Jackie Ankerson and her husband Allan Fici on South Lime Lake Road live “off the grid.” They are “half a mile from the main road, and a quarter mile from grid power,” explains Jackie. “Consumers Energy quoted us a price of $10,000 to run electric lines and hook us up — we never actually considered being on the grid.

“Our whole system cost us about $17,000” to deliver independently produced power to our house that is approximately 1,500 square feet she continues. “We know about 15 people locally who live completely ‘off the grid’, happily and quite comfortably.”

Self-sufficient and independent, their home is able to produce its own power from a variety of sources, utilizing the abundance of renewable energy resources that northern Michigan has to offer. “We have a 1,000-watt African Wind Power (AWP) wind generator and 600 watts of photovoltaic panels,” drawing wind and sun energy without polluting,” Jackie continues. “We like the idea of having renewable power without pollution.” Their home also uses gas to run a refrigerator, hot water heater and a gas range. However, they do look forward to a time when “we have an alternative to the propane.” There are also heat pumps for the floor that are powered by electricity produced by renewable sources.

Following the same mentality of living off the local environment, Jackie and Allan found that the wealth of trees in northern Michigan were a renewable resource that could be harvested and used responsibly. “We have a wood stove on the main floor,” she says, and “our floors are maple and beech that we had milled from another piece of property where Consumers Energy was widening its path through the woods for bigger power lines,” after which the environmental couple “had the lumber milled and kiln-dried locally.” But Jackie and Allan also turned to recycled wood products to construct their “green” home. Jackie explains that “a lot of our framing for the house is recycled 4x6 lumber that we purchased through Odom’s [in Traverse City] and cleaned up to use; it had to be de-nailed and the rotten ends cut off. The post and beams are from the property where we built [and] we also have wood from a lumber company that was going out of business, which we used for wainscoting, cupboards, bathroom paneling and trim. Our white cedar siding and shakes are from a friend in Canada who has a small, one-person wood mill. He uses the excess from the logging operations.”

Even though their home could support the addition of a dishwasher, Jackie says that they chose not to include one. There is a clothes washer in their home, but no dryer. She said that “we may have a dryer someday, [but] it would have to be propane.”

Transforming her lifestyle into a more symbiotic relationship with the Earth was not a recent desire of Jackie’s. She explains, “this is something that I have wanted to do since I was in my late teens.” Living in a home like this “helps offset our carbon footprint,” Jackie says. The fact that “we’re responsible for our needs and maintenance of our system,” was another reason that living off the grid was attractive and desirable.

Both Jackie and Allan began the project with the desire to design and build a house from “local materials, when possible. We saw it as an opportunity to fulfill dreams that we have had for a long time. We did a lot of the work ourselves. Both Allan and I have experience with building and building systems. My brother is a licensed builder who worked with us throughout the process. We hired friends who have experience and we were very happy with the whole building experience,” she says. After the initial construction, “it took about two years to build and put in the renewable energy system.”

But the construction of their home required work and time. Jackie says that they began by “educating ourselves to what was available and what our needs were. Installation of the systems was a lot of work; we did not have the most ideal location for solar and putting a wind tower and generator up in the woods — [it] had its challenges.” However, Jackie says that “as far as adjustments to our lifestyle, we really did not have to make any. We ran our sales business out of the house for the first year, running two computers and printers. We really did not have any issues.”

However, their home did have its drawbacks. One such consequence, Jackie says, is that relying on batteries, “eventually someone will have to be responsible for disposing of them when their 70-year life cycle is complete.” Another negative aspect is, “we need to pay attention to our power intake and usage,” she admits, but in doing so, “it has made us more aware of our needs and the weather — when there is wind, when the sun is shining.” On the other hand, the advantages of living off the grid are many. “We have never had a power outage, we are independent, our system generates cleaner sine wave power than we would get being on the grid, with no up and down power spikes, [and] we are taking responsibility for our energy needs.” After the initial installation four years ago, there haven’t been any issues with the system.

In building their sustainable home, the kindness of others was an important factor. “Our close community of friends and family were very supportive. Some people in the community are pretty unaware that it is even possible to be independent and ‘off grid’. For a country as advanced as we portray it to be, it is unfortunate that more people are not educated on the possibilities of cleaner, renewable energy options,” laments Jackie. One concern that she and Allan share is of ordinances for wind generation. “Our township does not have any ordinances for wind generation, [but] it is getting close now,” she says.

Jackie and Allan also encourage others to begin transforming their lifestyles to include more sustainable, balanced practices. People need to simply start somewhere. These beginning, initial steps are crucial to sparking change. “A person could install a grid-inner tie inverter and install photovoltaic panels to start making power. With this type of installation one can enjoy the flexibility of staying with grid power and supplementing their power needs,” she explains.

Ripples begin small, and they grow. But first, the pebble must be cast.

Posted by editor at 11:01 AM | Comments (0)

June 14, 2007

CSAs: Northern Michigan’s Growing Crop of Farms

By F. Josephine Arrowood
Sun contributor

In the past dozen years, a new crop has been growing in northern Michigan — one whose spirit harks back to ancient growing practices and sense of shared endeavor. In Leelanau County alone, six Community Supported Agriculture farms aim to reconnect small-scale, sustainable production with those who purchase and consume the fruits (and other delicious products) of the grower’s labor. They “offer a path to farm preservation, stability, and profit, at the same time that [they] connect people with their food supply and build community,” according to a regional CSA website hosted by the non-profit Land Information Access Association.

Sweeter Song Farm, in the heart of Leelanau, has been putting these goals into solid practice for the past seven years, but owners Judy Reinhardt and James Schwantes began to create their vision even earlier. In 1991, the St. Louis couple, a school counselor and occupational therapist, moved to the county, and bought the abandoned Witkowski farm in Centerville Township. Judy worked at Leland Public Schools while Jim maintained his therapy practice, and the two began the arduous process of updating the farmhouse (whose rustic charms excluded indoor plumbing), and planning the 80-acre homestead’s future.

“We knew we wanted to farm it, and Jim had read about shareholder-owned farms in Connecticut,” Judy relates, on a warm spring afternoon punctuated by equipment deliveries, finishing paperwork for their long-awaited organic certification, and preparations for the season’s first batch of weekly harvest offerings. She continues, “The two sisters who sold us the farm have become good friends over the years, and they were happy,” to see it continue as a working family farm, with 10 acres under cultivation, 55 acres of protected wetlands, and 15 acres of grassland.

They received valuable advice from Jim Moses and Linda Griggs of Maple City, near-legendary organic farmers, educators and fierce advocates of small-scale, sustainable agriculture (although their farm’s focus is not share-owned CSA, but locally produced, certified organic produce, shiitake mushrooms, and maple syrup that they sell to local restaurants, Oryana Food Co-op, and at area farmers’ markets). Another role model was Meadowlark Farm in Lake Leelanau, owned by Jon and Jenny Tutlis, who began their thriving CSA farm 10 years ago.

Jim and Judy work hard to “walk their talk” of sustainability. Sweeter Song has been going through the rigorous, multi-year process of organic certification, and they anticipate final approval this summer. Judy explains, “It’s very intensive, with three years of records showing crop rotations, where and what organic seeds were bought (we have to keep all the packages), soil amendments — everything!” Although they are closely connected with their customers, who know and participate in their farming practices, Judy and Jim feel that, for them, organic certification provides even more flexibility in marketing their produce and in educating the public.

“We grow everything: plants start in our greenhouse, and we also have a hoop house, which is a covered, non-heated structure that can extend the season at both ends.” Other sustainable practices include water-saving irrigation, planting cover crops such as buckwheat, which return nutrients to the earth, and proactive pest control that includes limited use of organic sprays targeting specific bugs.

“We also pick off a lot of bugs — potato beetles, tomato worms — and we rotate our crops; that’s very important and traditional. We’re not a monoculture — that leaves you open to pests and diseases,” Judy warns. “People who don’t do organic gardening are always astounded by our healthy plants. You have to plant at the right time, get them in the ground before they’re stressed, and keep them watered. We mow an area around our fields,” to fend off grasshoppers, and their chickens participate in the farm’s daily round by eating would-be crop predators. “But they’re out there, just waiting!” she laughs.

A central tenet of CSAs is the shared risk of farmers and customers in bringing good food from field to table, and Judy notes that it’s not right for everyone. Early in the season, new members may feel surprise at the relatively light offerings, such as lettuce, spinach, scallions, radishes and carrots. Soon, summer ushers in a wider abundance of field-fresh offerings, such as strawberries, peas, cukes, squash, tomatoes, peppers, grapes and more — but unlike a farmers market, it’s not pick-and-choose, or as predictable in its scope.

“We encourage people to learn how to put up food easily, like freezing, and we have recipes on our website so they can try out new foods, like kale, turnips or chard,” Judy says. Another advantage of CSA farms is that customers are more personally invested in the outcome. “The best part is coming to Sweeter Song and seeing what’s here,” when customers pick up their harvest, freshly picked on Monday or Thursday for same-day collection.

In addition to Jim and Judy, now retired from their other careers to devote 10 or 12 hours a day to their farm, Sweeter Song thrives with the efforts of a Michigan State University agriculture student employed as a full-time intern, two part-time workers, and eight work-share customers, who trade 60 hours of labor (30 of them upfront, before the first harvest in June), in addition to their share-owning customers who trade $400 for 20 weeks of fresh vegetables, fruit, cut flowers, herbs and eggs, as well as the joys and risks of organic agrarian pursuits. They can also purchase honey, maple syrup, shiitakes, fair trade coffee and pasture-fed beef through Sweeter Song’s arrangements with neighboring farms and suppliers, and the general public can find their eggs at Cedar City Market throughout the year.

Sweeter Song sold out their shares this season, with 140 families and 103 shares. “We were inundated with requests from people who are trying to eat locally,” Judy says. She feels that CSAs have grown in popularity as people have rediscovered the superior taste and quality of fresh produce from their own areas, and she urges interested customers to check out other CSA farms for possible available shares, or to get on their mailing list for 2008 notification and sign-up.

Other CSA farms in the area include Meadowlark Farm in Lake Leelanau; Five Springs Farm near Bear Lake that delivers to Beulah in Benzie County; Big Belly Farm in Empire (on sabbatical this year, but selling their delicious fruit and produce at the Empire Farmers Market each Saturday); Sky View Farm in Maple City (also on sabbatical due to an injury, but look for them in 2008); Eco-Learning Center near Bingham in southeastern Leelanau; and new this year, Black Star Farm in Suttons Bay, already known for their winery, horse boarding, inn and home of Leelanau Cheese. These and other regional farms in Traverse City, Elk Rapids and Old Mission can be found on the website powered by the Land Information Access Association at www.csafarms.org.

For those interested in becoming CSA farmers, check out the quarterly Community Farms Newsletter, available from The Community Farm, 3480 Potter Rd, Bear Lake, MI 49614, or at csafarm@jackpine.net. They plan to offer CSA Mini-schools this fall and winter, organize a biennial statewide conference (next in 2008), and are creating a training manual that can be viewed at the CSA website, as well.

Posted by editor at 11:11 AM | Comments (0)

May 24, 2007

Leelanau cultured veggies: great farmentations

Pat Stinson
Sun contributor

This area’s growing community of food artisans is taking us back to our agricultural and culinary roots, reclaiming traditions of planting, growing, preserving, cooking and baking handed down to us by previous generations. Knowledge of these simple food processes are learned gifts that many of us have forgotten how to enjoy, have taken for granted or have chosen to ignore for the sake of convenience.

One by one, however, local artisans are turning back the clock to save the future of food.

Nancy Curley inspects her bok choy and cabbage prior to planting

On the sunrise side of Lake Leelanau, in Elmwood Township, Nancy and Pat Curley have joined a nutritional food movement that is sprouting across the country. Using raw vegetables and herbs grown from seed on their 13-acre, U.S.D.A.-certified organic farm, they produce live-culture (fermented) veggie condiments with an infusion of sea salt, herbs, spices, skill and loving care.

They call their product, “Leelanau Cultured Veggies” because, as Nancy explained, the couple loves Leelanau County, the “land of delight,” where they make their home. Pat calls the process “farmentation” because every step needed to produce the final product — planting seed, nuturing plants as they grow, harvesting and fermenting veggies, and packing and labeling the jars — occurs on their farm.

Unlike commercially-produced fermented foods, their recipes do not require heat (used in pasteurization) or vinegar to preserve the ingredients. Their certified kitchen, conveniently located between fields next to their home, doesn’t need a stove or an oven. The natural fermentation process is simple, as Sally Fallon, a nutrition activist, describes in the third edition of her book, Nourishing Traditions. After harvest, the veggies are washed and cut, blended with salt, herbs or spices and pounded or mixed to release their juices. The mixture is stored at room temperature for a few days to allow fermentation by naturally-occurring lactobacilli. These organisms turn starches and sugars into lactic acid. The salt keeps putrefying bacteria from forming until enough lactic acid is created to preserve the condiments for long-term storage in airtight containers, which are then placed in a refrigerator or other cool, dark location.

The bright flavors of these naturally-fermented raw foods, as well as their reported health-promoting properties, have made them popular items at area markets, including the Cedar City Market and Burritt’s and Oryana in Traverse City. Ty’s Spicy Beets is the creation of the Curley’s youngest son, a San Francisco chef who was living in Traverse City at the time he developed the recipe. Daisy’s Pink Ginger, made with red and white cabbage and a generous dose of ginger from Oryana, was the brainchild of daughter, Daisy, an artist and water quality tester, who felt that at least one of the products needed some of the aromatic spice. Curry Kraut, Kale Kraut, Dill Carrots and Nancy’s Kim Chee were recipes Nancy developed using her own taste buds and a time-honored Korean sauerkraut tradition. The kim chee recipe may vary, depending on the harvest, and might include farm-grown Napa (a Chinese cabbage), cabbages, bok choy, carrots, hot and sweet peppers, radishes, onions and garlic, plus salt and spices — all organic.

A Taste of Good Health

Whether genetic or learned, the response to intense flavors of organically-grown, handcrafted food is overwhelmingly positive. It’s the serotonin surge experienced by those who have bitten into crisp and juicy Brabenec apples from Northport or munched on fresh, crunchy asparagus from the Norconk farm in Empire. It’s a sensual taste experience most of us do not have with our supermarket vegetables.

“I study and do a lot of reading, I really care about the soil,” Nancy said. “People have commented that they can tell by the taste of our vegetables.”

The veggies’ great taste is no accident. Nancy and Pat have enjoyed and planted a garden together every year since they first met — in a garden — 34 years ago. Their skill, experience, shared passion for growing food and their commitment to health, hard work and stewardship of the land have resulted in an honest, “traditional healing food that more people can eat.”

Both Nancy and Pat had been vegetarians throughout their marriage — until the fermented food bug hit. Nancy said her years as a vegetarian and eating “tons” of soy all changed when a friend gave her Fallon’s book to read seven years ago.

“I thought I was doing the right thing for the earth by eating vegetarian … and that soy was good for you, but it’s hard to digest.”

Nourishing Traditions became Nancy’s food “bible,” and she read about the benefits of incorporating aged meats, cultured dairy and fermented grains into her diet. The book cites the historical tradition of fermented foods among isolated, older cultures. The story of dentist Weston Price’s travels in the 1930s — and his observations of traditional peoples, their food habits and fewer health problems — struck a chord with Nancy, who had been making sauerkraut for years. She began experimenting with recipes and added carrots and beets to her fermented foods menu at home.

Some health benefits of eating lacto-fermented foods include their high nutritional value and their ability to enhance digestion, increase vitamin and mineral levels and fight toxins. Everyday, to jump-start their digestion, the Curleys eat small portions of their cultured veggies as an appetizer or on a salad before a meal. They suggest serving them with pasta or, as Chef Nancy Krcek Allen likes to eat them, as a soup garnish.

Feeding the dream

While shopping at a store downstate, Nancy Curley discovered packages of fermented food products made in Canada. It was a turning point for her, as she knew she wanted to make fermented foods for a living, and be her own boss. For Pat, who wanted to do something besides painting, it was a chance to learn a new business. He visited the Quebec facility producing the fermented foods to study their operation.

Neighbor Marty Heller comes to get his share of the compost

When an opportunity arose in 2003 to buy a farm with good soil and lots of sunshine, they took it. Seeds were started in a greenhouse owned by Jim Moses and Linda Griggs. Fields were plowed and hay was planted. A potting shed was built and a building for the commercial kitchen was added. Last summer, they started building a new home on the property with the help of their son, Jesse. They moved to the Curley-Ladd farm in February, named in honor of Nancy’s grandparents.

None of this could have been possible, Nancy said, without the help of many, many people, including Moses and Griggs, close friend Benny Bowmaster, who helped with many projects; Fred Heltinen of Cedar, who did all of the tractor work, excavating and plumbing for the pole building; Jake Elliot, who helped with the farm and whose family originally owned it; neighbor Marty Heller and friend Karen McCleary, who help with the farming and processing; Chef Ted Sizma, of the Grand Traverse Resort; Rob Serbin for his help with the sale of the house and purchase of the new land; and for others who have expressed interest in carrying veggie products in their establishments.

“We are so blessed,” she said. “So many people have helped us, and we’re grateful for friends who donated time and words of encouragement.”

Last spring, the Curleys graduated from a 10-week course called, “Tilling the Soil of Opportunity,” offered through the county extension office. They learned how to evaluate “value-added ventures” and write a business plan. At the same time, they were sowing the seeds of their future business with plantings of cabbage, Napa, bok choy, kale, onions, garlic and peppers.

In April, the couple made their first deliveries to area markets and attended a presentation by Sandor Ellix Katz, the author of Wild Fermentation: The Flavor, Nutrition and Craft of Live-Culture Foods at the Leelanau Horticultural Station in Bingham Township. Brad and Amanda Kik of the Island Institute (for Sustainable Living, Art and Design in Bellaire), and Marty Heller, the Curleys’ neighbor and farm helper, made Katz’s presentation possible by finding sponsors. The event was well-attended and helped raise community awareness about the importance of reconnecting with techniques for cultivating and harvesting our own food.

“It’s about taking care of the earth and how farming should be — without the chemicals,” she said. “It’s about keeping the faith.”

Posted by editor at 07:47 AM | Comments (0)

Asparagus, a wonder drug and olfactory pleaser

By Waleed Al-Shamma
Sun contributor

Heart attacks, cancer, strokes, diabetes and … the ability to produce and/or smell rank urine? While asparagus may help fight and prevent most of these hereditary traits, it is responsible for one of them.

There is rarely complete harmony in the scientific community. Indeed scientists find it necessary to debate “provable facts” from the Big Bang to the severity of, or human impact on, global climate change. Why should “asparagus pee,” as it’s affectionately known, be left out? Here’s what they seem to agree on: roughly two in five people will either produce or smell fowl urine after eating as few as three or four spears of this inaugural spring vegetable. I had a friend many years ago who claimed he could only smell “good smells”. He once went so far as to suggest that wind, which had recently been broken, smelled reminiscent of maple syrup. At the time I considered this averment beyond reproach, but now knowing that up to 60 percent of the population cannot sense this fetid, putrid, olid, musty, stinky, rancid, malodorous stench, I might be inclined to give him the benefit of the doubt in the future.

This entire olfactory debate is, however, of little value when one considers the myriad benefits of eating asparagus. Particularly the fresh, local asparagus that is so abundant this time of year. Our renown in Michigan is not limited to car manufacturing and cherry production alone. Yes, our state is the third largest producer of asparagus in the country, which happens to be the third largest producer of asparagus in the world. Why fresh? Why local?

There are plenty of nutritional and economical (support your local everything) reasons, but the most convincing reason in my mind is flavor. You have another week or so to try this experiment. Go to your nearest gargantuan supermarket and buy as little Mexican or Peruvian asparagus as you can get away with. (After all, you don’t want to be stuck with a whole pound of the stuff now when the local asparagus is available for such a limited time.) On your way home stop at a roadside farm market or local grocer and pick up a pound or three of local asparagus.

As an employee of Zingerman’s in Ann Arbor, I suggest you follow our four steps to taste great food: know it, look at it, smell it, taste it. Incidentally, I owe my adult rekindling of a love affair with asparagus to Rodger Bowser, chef at Zingerman’s Deli. Should you find yourself at the Deli in May, be sure and eat the Number 5, Rodger’s Big Picnic (asparagus, portabella mushroom, Cheddar cheese & Dijon vinaigrette on grilled farm bread), and a side of asparagus. I say rekindling because wild asparagus grew in my front yard on the Old Mission Peninsula when I was a wee lad. Imagine a seven-year-old eating asparagus for the flavor! I then spent my entire teenage years repulsed by asparagus because that which found its way into my parents’ fridge had more frequent flier miles than I do.

Know your asparagus. Since you are buying it directly from the farmer or from a local grocer, it shouldn’t be too difficult to ascertain where your asparagus was grown, or when it was harvested, or by whom. Look at it. It should be fat and green. There is an alternate method of growing that produces white asparagus and another cultivar known as purple asparagus, but we’ll stick with what is most common. Smell it. I find it has a slightly peppery, heartier “greens” smell. Saving the best for last, taste it!

With smell and taste it’s important to remember there are no wrong answers. People have often told me prior to or during tastings that they felt intimidated; they didn’t feel as though they possessed the necessary “tasting vocabulary”. I am quick to tell people they’re wrong. If you think something tastes like roses smell, or like an old gym sock, you’re right. That is to say taste is necessarily subjective, don’t be afraid to shout out or write down the first thing that pops into your mind. When it comes to my personal preferences for most vegetables, asparagus in particular — oh baby, you know I like it raw! Eating raw vegetables is, of course, the best way to ensure you are getting all of the nutrients out of the food and into your system. That being said, the strong vegetal flavor of raw asparagus is often too much for most people. Eaten as a side dish, it is most commonly boiled, steamed or grilled beyond recognition. In such a sad, limp, pale yellow state, virtually all of the slew of nutritional benefits contained in these proud shoots have been cooked off, leaving you with mushy wads of green that are scarcely more that a vehicle for butter. Knowing that, I suggest blanching your asparagus.

Blanching is one of those things that sounds fancy, but is actually rather simple. Bring water to a rapid boil in a deep pan or a wide pot, one that allows enough room for the asparagus to sit in the water unencumbered. Drop the asparagus into the boiling water gradually from the fattest to the thinnest spears to allow them to blanch evenly. Prepare an ice bath (ice and cold water) in another pan or large bowl. Allow the asparagus to remain in the boiling water for no more than 2-3 minutes. You will quickly see the asparagus turn a lighter, more vibrant green. When you remove it from the water, place it immediately in the ice bath to “shock” it, or to rapidly halt the cooking process. This is often done as a first step prior to further cooking. Blanching neutralizes some enzymes and bacteria and thereby extends shelf life. It can also help to improve flavor by releasing pent up bitter acids and enhance the appearance by releasing some gases that obscure the greenness of chlorophyll.

At this point, the asparagus should still be firm and have perfect flavor. If you want to dress it up just a little, drizzle some olive oil over it and sprinkle it with fresh cracked pepper and sea salt. Save the butter and cheese for imported asparagus during the off-season.

I just polished off the fourth pound of asparagus I purchased from four different local farms over the past week and a half. I’ve also had a glass of water and four glasses of iced tea over the past three hours. How often can your roommate know your diet after you micturate?

Posted by editor at 04:34 AM | Comments (0)

Hunting for Morel mushrooms in the National Park

By Jane Greiner
Sun contributor

Locals and visitors alike are discovering that ranger-led walks are a great way to enjoy the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore (the local branch of the National Park Service). As part of the program, “Saturdays at the Lakeshore,” a ranger meets with the public at the Philip Hart Visitors Center in Empire to give a brief introduction before leading the day’s hike. This spring the National Lakeshore has held walks to a maple sugar house, newly discovered log cabins in the Park, waterfowl observation and a mushroom hunt for beginners.

The two-hour programs are geared to the general public, and as such the rangers often provide free handouts or loaner materials and equipment such as bird books, binoculars and a spotting scope.

I recently joined about 40 adults and 10 children for the beginner’s mushroom hunt. Ranger Marie Scott began by explaining the mission, which is to “preserve and protect” the Park. The general rule is that nothing can be removed from or collected within its territory. No one should pick wildflowers, collect Petoskey stones, dig for artifacts, cut down trees or take home souvenirs of any kind. However, the public can gather fruit and berries and edible mushrooms for their own personal use. The official list of allowable fruits and berries is called the Superintendent’s Compendium.

Using slides and a few fresh mushrooms, Ranger Marie taught us how to identify the edible Morel mushroom by three characteristics: it must have a pitted, hollow cap; it must have a hollow stem; and the cap must be attached to the stem along the bottom of the cap.

Though the Morel is by far the most popular mushroom, there are other edible mushrooms in our midst. We learned that Shaggy Manes are easy to spot and edible, though never to be mixed with alcohol. Puffballs are also edible, but should always be sliced open first to determine that no gills are visible. Gills would indicate that they are not really puffballs and might be Death Angels. But our primary goal for the day would be Morel mushrooms.

Ranger Marie also had three cardinal rules for mushroom hunters, which she had printed out on large flash cards. The first read: “There is no cure for mushroom poisoning.” This is a strong reminder that we must be absolutely certain when identifying mushrooms to eat.

The second rule she had us repeat aloud, “If it isn’t hollow, do not swallow.” All Morels are hollow, including the stem. If a mushroom you have found looks like a Morel but has a soft or cottony inside stem when you slice it open, it isn’t a Morel. Don’t eat it!

The third: “When in doubt, throw it out,” is a common-sense rule of thumb that could save your life.

Ranger Marie said that old orchards and old sawmill locations are good places to look. “Morels like disturbances,” she said. Not recent ones, but places where there had been changes in the past.

She advised us against hunting for mushrooms under pine trees. Morels certainly grow there, she said, but so do some poisonous mushrooms. And if a Morel grows up through the tiny root-like tendrils of a poisonous mushroom, or has poisonous spores nearby, it could easily be contaminated. Her mother taught her never to eat mushrooms found under pine trees, and to be safe, she taught the same thing to her kids.

After the briefing we went mushroom hunting with Ranger Marie at the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive. Our hunt started at the parking area near the entrance, where Ranger Marie showed us a mushroom growing there and mentioned that this area used to be a great mushroom spot before the parking lot was built.

She also listed the equipment she recommends for a mushroom hunt. A mesh bag (like an onion bag) is best for collecting. This helps spread the spores, and keeps the collected mushroom fresh. A plastic bag starts the decomposing process almost immediately. She also recommended water and a snack, a compass, because it is so easy to get disoriented in the woods, and a watch, because you can lose all sense of time in the excitement of a successful hunt. To find your way out of the woods by dark, you need to set a reasonable time for starting back.

We took the walking trail from the parking lot and someone spotted a couple of mushrooms almost immediately. Luckily, the Ranger had prepped us to call out when we found a mushroom and refrain from picking it until all of us could see the mushroom and begin developing our “mushroom eyes.” With so many people it took a few minutes, but we all got to see where the mushroom grew.

We crossed the drive and walked up about a quarter mile and then onto a gentle wooded slope to the left where Ranger Marie hoped we could find more mushrooms. As we walked through the woods she pointed out many indicators for mushrooms such as black cherry (potato chip bark) trees and Jack in the Pulpit wildflowers.

Though it had been a dry week, a few people in the group did find a couple of mushrooms. We also saw some red scarlet cups, which are distinctive mushrooms and often grow in the vicinity of Morels, and a beefsteak mushroom, which, though edible for many people, can, on occasion, be deadly.

Though only a few mushrooms were found on this dry afternoon, the ranger-led mushroom walk was a great success. All of us were able to see mushrooms in the woods. We all learned some useful tips on where and when to look for them. And we all could chant in unison, “If it isn’t hollow, Do Not Swallow!”

Posted by editor at 03:19 AM | Comments (0)

Envirothon teams seek sustainable environmental solutions

By Nadine Gilmer
Sun contributor

Of the many clubs at Glen Lake High School, the Envirothon team receives the least amount of recognition. Glen Lake’s three teams of five players each, advised by biology teacher Karen Richard, are the only Envirothon teams currently competing in our region. They are the kids who meet at lunch on Thursdays and talk about what should be done for the environment around us, but more specifically, what they are doing currently to accomplish this. Each team has a specific project to help the environment — the guidelines for any competing Envirothon team.

Haley Sobczak and Team Awesome's Envirothon project was planting dune grass for the Park.

At the state competition in Port Huron on May 3 and 4, Glen Lake teams presented their projects before a panel of judges before commencing to take the written test. No, not the kind of test that is taken in a quiet room without windows. A bus drove teams of students around to different sites in the area, and each team received a folder with papers color-coded by section (wildlife, aquatic ecology, energy, forestry, soils and sustainable agriculture). Students congregated on the grass or under a tree to examine the questions before them. Each team had to examine a pit of soil, identify a track in a dirt patch, classify a tree or examine a stream with a benthic. The tests were held so deep in nature that plastic booties were passed out at the farm site this year so as not to transport diseases from farm to farm. And after a day of tromping around in the wilderness taking environmental tests, the teams returned to the cozy cabins at Camp Cavell, on the shore of not-so-cozy Lake Huron.

Of Glen Lake’s representatives, Team Awesome, finished particularly well, placing second overall and first in Forestry, Aquatic Ecology and energy and second in soils. Team Awesome’s environmental outreach project was raising and planting dune grass for the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore (the local branch of the National Park Service). The team obtained dunegrass from the Park and raised the grass in the green house of Glen Lake’s biology lab, with much enthusiasm for its slow growth. The students planned to replant their grass at the end of May with the help of the Park.

Two other teams also competed: Team Yea That’s Us and the Tiny Salmon. The Tiny Salmon raised salmon in a giant tank in the biology lab to release into the Crystal River on May 18. Its goal was to teach children that salmon were a sign of good water quality and to inform them of the importance of taking care of our watershed.

Yea That’s Us attempted to introduce biodegradable plastic wear into the school lunch program. The idea for this came from Maura Niemisto, who saw the biodegradable plastic ware used at the music festival in Telluride, Colorado and told the rest of the team about the benefits of it. Yea That’s Us ordered sample spoons and trays from the non-profit organization World Centric and buried them in flowering pots with school spoons and school trays, watering them faithfully every week to simulate landfill conditions. After six weeks the biodegradable items looked positively putrid while the school items looked like someone could still eat off them. After a presentation to Linda Crouch (the head of the lunch program), Yea That’s Us concluded that the biodegradable plastic wear was wonderful and necessary but too expensive for the lunch program to use at this point. Neverthelesss, the school was notified of the issue to raise awareness and concern, mostly due to a survey passed out at the beginning of the operation. All high school students were given a survey asking them if they would support the change to biodegradable plastic ware. The results were 72 percent in favor of the change and some students asked for returning to silverware, which Glen Lake no longer uses due to students too frequently throwing them away. Even though their endeavor did not succeed this year, Team Yea That’s Us has felt the rewards of being truly involved in a solution, as have the rest of the Envirothon members at Glen Lake. Envirothon fills the perfect niche for high schoolers: a way to learn and a way to be involved, and a rewarding trip to Port Huron for their troubles.

Posted by editor at 02:12 AM | Comments (0)

August 24, 2006

The Secret Life of Melons

By Holly Wren Spaulding
Sun contributor

Working outside and tending our gardens many of us have noticed that the bees are active of late, in some cases aggressively defending their food sources and nesting areas. Bee and wasp killer is on display at the hardware store and for some among us, stings mean allergic swelling and emergency measures. But I cringe to think that the bees are regarded as a hazard and hassle of the season — that they are perceived as pests and treated to chemicals no matter what they are up to.

Domesticated around 7000 years ago, bees have long lived in collaboration with humans, providing us with sweet honey and pollinating our flowering food crops both in the wild and in our cultivated plots.

Pollination is the process by which an animal — usually a wild bee, though domestic honey bees, wasps, moths, butterflies, flies, beetles and other invertebrates can also do this job — carries pollen from one flower to another while gathering nectar. This pollen fertilizes the flower, thus ensuring that a fruit is eventually born.

Back in June a few of us transplanted melon seedlings into a 300-foot row on the farm where I work. We tucked them gently into little holes on top of heat reflecting black fabric, anticipating a variety of melons in by summer’s end. In late July the plants were flowering and it was time to remove the canopy of “remay” agricultural cloth, which protects the young plants from cooler temperatures and especially from pests.

Flowers, by definition, are pretty and sweet smelling — they need to get noticed by the roving bees and their appearance has evolved to function as a form of flirtation. When a melon blossom opens it has about eight hours to attract the affections of a bee. When the sun comes up, bees head out in search of nectar, making trips back and forth to the hive where they deposit what they have collected for the youngsters in the nursery. If a pollinator isn’t around to find those open blossoms, nothing will become of that particular effort at fruiting. When the temperatures cool at the end of day, blooms close and bees head home for the night. You can see why it is important to uncover the melons as soon as the flowers appear and why it is important that our pollinators be offered safe passage when they are doing what they do.

This week the first of the melons, a lovely little dark green one with an orangey red flesh called “sweet little flower” were ready for picking. We farm workers ate dripping, pretty chunks like summer itself while we went about our harvest.

According to the book Fatal Harvest, “animals provide pollination services for over three-quarters of the staple crop plants that feed humankind and for 90 percent of flowering plants in the world.” Interestingly, the pollination services provided by honeybees are estimated at 60 to 100 times more valuable in economic terms than the market price of honey. It may be obvious, but we need these pollinators in a serious way.

Having taken an interest in the supreme role the bees are playing in making these melons come into being, I was alarmed to read that the National Academy of Sciences has been considering adding honeybees to the endangered species list. What is killing off our precious pollinators? Habitat is in decline as wild places turn over to development and the widespread use of pesticides is not only killing the nasty insects around lawns, farms and gardens, but as we know those broad-based agricultural chemicals also annihilate the benevolent species.

Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock with watermelon seeds and bees around 1929. All made their way south and soon Florida was the country’s largest producer of melons and these days the crop has an estimated annual value of around $60 million. Beekeepers in Florida often rent their bees to the melon growers when the vines are flowering, ensuring that the plants are fertilized. Each depends upon the other.

I am reminded of that fundamental of ecology: relationship. When the pollinators find those emerging yellow blossoms in the melon patch, the ensuing exchange is critical to a successful crop; it also a useful metaphor for the cantaloupe lovers among us as we pass through the world, find what we need, and move on. We human worker bees need to remove the veil, let the sun in on the growing thing, and do our best to support our partners (bees among them) in the work of growing good food, and sustaining agricultural into the future. Likewise, we’ll want to bear in mind the other needs of our oft forgotten pollinators: undisturbed or re-wilding habitat for foraging, nesting and roosting; native plants for sustaining healthy populations of wild pollinators who travel to our farm in search of nectar; and a wide eyed awareness that all synthetic agricultural chemicals are the death knell for so much of what is required for keeping this elegant system alive.

We humans tend to be concerned for the health and future of our own small plot of fertile land, but we’d do well to be thinking in terms of the patchwork of land around us too — how is it being treated and what kinds of habits and policies make it so.

In an era when pesticides are used as a matter of course in most farming operations, our farm prefers to embrace the bug life that results in fertile crops and happy bees. In exchange for some bee magic, we reflect on how our human actions support (or undermine) the pollinators. These kinds of calibrations are what sound farming depends upon, as does watermelon in August.

Over the coming weeks, you may be eating food from your own garden or another local farm. The fruit of flowering plants is coming to light: beans, potatoes, squash, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and melons will bring us delight and nourishment. They are gifts from the bees, as much as they are the produce of good soil, much water, the sun and many human hands.

Posted by editor at 02:06 PM | Comments (0)

Green funerals an earthy alternative

By Linda Jo Scott
Sun contributor

While our country is focused on end-of-life issues, perhaps it is a good time to look at burial practices, as well. Are you aware that an ordinary funeral costs between $6,000 and $10,000? And that with steel caskets and concrete vaults, we aren't returning our bodies to our mother earth for thousands of years?

According to Mary Woodsen, Vice President of the Pre-Posthumous Society of Ithaca, New York and freelance science writer, “Each year in the U.S., we bury 827,060 gallons of embalming fluid, which includes formaldehyde; 180,544,000 pounds of steel, in caskets; 5,400,000 pounds of copper and bronze, in caskets; 30 million board feet of hardwoods, including tropical woods, in caskets; 3,272,000,000 pounds of reinforced concrete in vaults; 28,000,000 pounds of steel in vaults.

In an effort to eliminate all of this waste, a movement for “green funerals” is already strong in Britain and is beginning to catch on in this country. There are already over 200 “green” or “woodland” cemeteries in England and just under 100 in this country. In these wooded areas, people can be buried in burial shrouds made of natural fibers, or cardboard or wood coffins, provided the wood comes from “sustainable forests.” Or they can be cremated and their ashes can be placed in these places of beauty.

Instead of conventional gravestones, the family can plant indigenous wildflowers or a tree to mark the burial spot--or simply place a natural, uncut rock as a marker. If the family wishes, it can physically carry the body to the site, dig the grave, and lovingly return the loved one to the earth.

Dr. Billy Campbell of Westminster, South Carolina, has established Ramsay Creek Preserve, a 32-acre “green” or “woodland” cemetery. Though religion is not a necessary element at Ramsay Creek, Dr. Campbell has moved an old chapel onto the grounds to be restored for use by people of all faiths. Archives will be kept in the chapel of the life histories of all who are buried at Ramsay Creek.

Woodland cemeteries also provide an answer to space problems, for they exist both as natural places of beauty and as burial sites.

Are there “green cemeteries” in Michigan? According to Suzanne Jolicoeur, Cemetery Commissioner of the State of Michigan Department of Labor and Economic Growth, “there are cemeteries here which do not require vaults, and if the body is disposed of within 48 hours, no embalming is required.” Jolicoeur does not know of any cemetery in Michigan, however, which would accept a biodegradable casket without a vault. “You could get sinkholes and people could fall and injure themselves.”

“People can bury on their own property,” says Charlotte mortician, Charles L. Green, Green. “The health department says it's fine, so long as the death is recorded. It's like with farm animals; you need to bury them deep. Of course it could be a problem if the land changes hands. The new people might not want people to come around to visit the site.”

A person who wants a “green funeral” would need to inform family members in advance. An actual site could be chosen, and the family could create a ceremony in total harmony with nature and the cycle of life.

See “Mother Earth News,” April/May 2003; “Caring for the Dead: Your Final Act of Love” by Lisa Carlson, “Guidebook for Creating Home Funerals” by Jerri Lyons; “Dealing Creatively with Death, A Manual of Death Education and Simple Burial” by Ernest Morgan or go to web sites www.crossing.net; www.finalpassages.org; or www.memorialecosystems.com for more information.

Posted by editor at 12:10 AM | Comments (0)

July 13, 2006

Grilling — the elemental call

By Nancy K. Allen, CCP
Sun contributor

Midsummer (July 22), the astrological sign of Cancer gives way to Leo, a sign of fire. That is significant for summer cooking — it’s when grilling heats up in earnest. No wonder that as summer deepens we find men and women standing around campfires and grills as if called to some mystical, primitive ritual.

The call to fire may be embedded in our very bone and fiber but we can always use a little help in getting the grilling thing just right. Influences of brilliant chefs and their fancy new recipes are moving us beyond slabs of meat charred on the grill and slashed with gooey, sweet barbecue sauce to a newer, gentler world of grilled peaches basted with butter and balsamic, and pizzas tender with olive oil.

Whether you use the more elemental charcoal or a modern gas grill, first and foremost you need to know how to check the temperature of your fire. Once your coals are covered with a gray ash you can level them and replace the grate — let it heat for 5 minutes. The gas grill needs to preheat with the lid down on high heat for 15 minutes. Then use the hand-testing method: hold your hand five inches above the cooking grate. A hot fire will get you yelping in two seconds, medium-hot in three to four seconds, medium in five to six seconds and medium-low in seven seconds.

There are two ways to grill: with direct or indirect heat. Direct heat cooks food over the heat source. With indirect heat, move the coals to the outer perimeter of the grill or to two sides and place a heatproof pan in the center to catch drippings. Place the food over the pan and cover the grill with its lid. Indirect cooking is perfect for slow roast-grilling large pieces like a whole turkey or chicken into heavenly, smoked tenderness — without the pesky flames leaping up to char your grilled gems.

Ten Rules of the Grill

1. Clean your grate and lid religiously. A rag dipped in oil and a wire-bristled brush do wonders. Dirty grates not only stick, they will leave your food tasting like last week’s meal. Dirty lids can rain down a shower of bitter black flecks.

2. Preheat your grate. You may lightly oil the clean grate with a paper towel dipped in oil.

3. Food should not be fresh out of the refrigerator. Cold food sticks more readily and cooks unevenly. Let meat, vegetables and fish sit at room temperature for 20 minutes. However if you want rare tuna you may freeze your fish, steaks or burgers briefly (15 minutes) so they stay cold and rare in the center while the outside sears and browns.

4. Trim excess fats from meat and scrape excess marinades to prevent flare-ups. Blot just washed food dry.

5. Oil the food lightly to keep it moist.

6. Salt meat just before it goes on the grill. Salt tends to pull moisture out of food (during short periods of direct contact) and so can toughen a piece of meat or fish.

7. Salt-brine or marinate chicken, turkey and pork for more flavor and juiciness.

8. To create grill marks, don’t move food until it is seared and releases naturally — about 2 minutes. Rotate the food 45 degrees to create crosshatch.

9. Don’t nervously press and flip your food. Have patience and pay attention. Rest meat after grilling to allow the heat to equalize throughout and finish cooking.

10. Prep ahead and have everything you need on a nearby table: charcoal chimney starter, long-handled tongs and spatula, clean platters, brushes, fork, instant-read thermometer for checking internal temperature of meat, oiled paper toweling, prepped food, seasonings like salt and pepper.

Internal temperatures of meat

RARE — internal temperature 120F to 130F. Soft and wobbly to the touch.
MEDIUM RARE — internal temperature 130F to 140F.
MEDIUM — internal temperature 140F to 150F. Spongy and firm ish.
MEDIUM WELL — internal temperature 150F to 160F
WELL DONE — internal temperature 160 to 185F. Firm like the tip of your nose.

Grilled fruit and vegetables

Grilling vegetables properly requires a medium-hot fire. The vegetables should be cooked separately and cut to expose maximum surface area to the grill. Skewer or place smaller vegetables on a portable mesh grate. Toss vegetables with a light coating of extra virgin olive oil or seasoned oil and salt just before grilling. Try preparing other dishes with grilled vegetables and fruits: salad, potato salad, mixed vegetable or fruit platter with dipping sauce, grilled corn salsa or grilled peach, grilled fennel and sardine or tomato-basil bruschetta on slices of oiled and grilled Stonehouse ciabatta.

Bell peppers — quarter them and remove seeds and ribs — seven to nine minutes turning once
Corn on the cob — remove all but innermost layer of husk, remove silkies — eight to 10 minutes — turn four times
Eggplant—slice into 1/2 inch rounds — salt for 20 minutes and dry — oil and grill eight to 10 minutes
Fennel bulb — remove stems and fronds — cut into 1/4 inch slices with root attached — oil and cook seven to nine minutes turning once
Potatoes — cut into small wedges—salt and oil and cook over medium low heat 10 minutes or more till golden turning two to three times
Portobello mushrooms — scrape out black gills with spoon — lightly oil and cook till soft — 10 to 15 minutes depending on size—turn once
Red onions — slice 1/2 inch thick into rounds and skewer with two parallel skewers — oil and grill 10 to 12 minutes
Asparagus — toss with oil and salt — grill five to eight minutes turning twice
Green beans — toss with oil and salt — grill four to six minutes turning once
Endive and radicchio — cut endive in half and radicchio into wedges through the core — brush with oil and grill four to six minutes
Summer squash and zucchini — cut lengthwise into 1/2 inch thick sticks — oil and salt and grill turning once eight to 10 minutes.
Scallions and leeks — trim off 1/4 to 1/2 of the green and the root end (don’t cut off the root completely, it holds the onion together. Toss in olive oil and salt. Grill until tender.

Marcella Hazan first inspired me to grill fruit. Grill fruit when the coals are nearing their finish. Choose fruit that is slightly firm. You can oil or butter the fruit and sprinkle with a 1/2 teaspoon of sugar. Lay a mesh grate or hinged grate on the grill and place the fruit on its cut side on either. Grill 12 inches above the heat until the fruit skin is charred, about seven or eight minutes. Turn and cook two to three minutes then flip again and grill the fruit, skin side down another couple of minutes. At this point you can pour rum or Grand Marnier into the bananas or liqueur onto any fruit, more sugar, honey, or a dash of balsamic vinegar. Apple and pears will take six to eight minutes longer to cook.

Peaches, apricots, plums and nectarines — cut in half and remove pit — place a 1/2 teaspoon sugar in cavity.
Apples and pears — cut in half, core out seeds with melon baller and score flesh with crosshatch of three or four cuts — sprinkle with a half teaspoon of brown sugar
Bananas — make an incision the length of the banana but don’t cut it in half and don’t peel it — sprinkle incision with a teaspoon of sugar
Pineapple — remove bottom and top — trim skin from outside of pineapple — slice into 1/4 inch rounds and butter or oil lightly — grill till tender about two to three minutes per side.

Greek lamb kebabs
Serves 4 to 6

Marinade
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
zest and juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons dried oregano or 1/4 cup fresh
3 to 4 cloves garlic
2 pounds boneless lamb from sirloin, leg, shoulder; fat removed, 1 to 1 1/2 inch cubes
1/2 teaspoon salt

Puree together marinade in blender and scrape it into a bowl. Toss in the lamb cubes and coat each well with the marinade. Allow the lamb to sit and marinate at room temperature for 2 hours or overnight in the refrigerator.

Heat a grill. Bring the lamb to room temperature. Scrape off excess marinade and skewer the lamb onto wooden or metal skewers. Grill until the meat reaches 130 to 135F for medium rare to medium. Serve this with rice or even folded into pita bread with the grape leaf and mint sauce. You may alternate meat with pieces of 1/2 inch diced zucchini tossed in olive oil and salt. Try this marinade on your next grilled leg of lamb. If you don’t like lamb, try chicken. These are great stuffed into a pita with a cucumber salad.

Greek grape leaf and mint sauce
2 cups, enough for 8 servings

1/2 cup Greek grape leaves, stems removed and rinsed well, chopped
3 tablespoons fresh mint leaves
2 tablespoons fresh oregano
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 cup flat leaf parsley leaves
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
3 tablespoons drained capers
1/2 cup chopped scallions
1 cup extra virgin olive oil

Place all the ingredients except the olive oil in a blender or food processor. Puree until smooth, adding the oil as is necessary to get the mixture to puree nicely. Serve with grilled lamb or pork. Keep refrigerated in a tightly closed jar for up to 1 week.

Adapted from The Complete Meat Cookbook.

Posted by editor at 06:53 PM | Comments (0)

June 29, 2006

Summer Salads

By Nancy Krcek Allen
Sun contributor

Salads are the ideal summer meal: when they accompany a larger meal they can be cool and light or when they are the meal they can be satisfyingly chock full of vegetables, protein and starch. Salads don’t have to heat up an already hot kitchen. All you really need to make a great salad is a sharp knife, a cutting board and a sense of color, texture and flavor.

For many years I’ve noticed that when I abandon recipes and choose my ingredients by color the food is more appealing. I’ve come to believe that a balance in color equals a balance in flavor, texture and nutrients. Salads are the perfect place for this approach. They can incorporate a wildly different selection of ingredients from leftover grilled chicken and yesterday’s bread, rice and steamed asparagus to smoked fish, pasta and beans. In other words, just about anything in your pantry might go into a great salad. Perhaps you sleepwalk through the produce aisle, drawn again and again to the watery crunch of head lettuce served baroque with blue cheese, or romaine tossed slippery and sweet with Caesar dressing? Salads can have far more passionate aspirations than you might suspect. With salad making, combinations are everything. Indonesian gado gado salad blankets shreds of curly cabbage, green beans, carrots and cucumbers with a spicy peanut sauce. California salads are compositions of apples and walnuts over endive. Italians top crispy little pizzas with arugula anointed with olive oil, salt, and lemon. The French toss butter lettuce with bitter greens like chicory and escarole and serve them after the main meal with mustard vinaigrette as a digestive.

Dive deep into the produce section for salad-makings like baby spinach, radicchio, chicory, escarole, mache, Bibb, endive, baby chard, oak leaf, green leaf, flat leaf parsley, and baby mustard greens. Wash them in cold water and spin them dry. Layer your green gatherings with paper toweling in ziplock bags and refrigerate.

Lettuce isn’t necessary for salads. Grains and beans, chopped raw vegetables and fruit can form the base for your next creation. How about diced cucumber, avocado, radish and pickled ginger or diced beets, dill and fennel?

Dressing for salads are essential — they pull a simple salad together with style. Although bottled dressings are great in a pinch, you might consider doing as the Italians do: extra virgin olive oil, salt and either fresh lemon juice or red wine vinegar. I go a step further to prepare a large quantity of French style emulsified vinaigrette. You can vary it a thousand ways by adding herbs, bleu cheese, dried cherries, mango, capers, olive paste and more.

City Kitchen classic mustard vinaigrette
Makes about 2 cups

1 heaping tablespoon Grey Poupon Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 1/2 cups extra virgin olive oil or a mixture of half canola and half XVO

Pour the mustard, vinegar and water into a blender (or food processor) and blend till smooth. With the machine running, slowly, in a thin stream, add the oil until the vinaigrette is thick, creamy and delicious. Add water to thin and make less acidic.

Variations for 2 cups mustard vinaigrette:
Curry: 2 tablespoons toasted curry powder
Cumin/Southwestern: 2 level tablespoons ground toasted cuminseed
Herb: 2 tablespoons chopped herbs like basil or cilantro or parsley or dill
Pesto: 2 tablespoons basil pesto
Roasted garlic: 2 to 4 tablespoons finely chopped roasted garlic
Wasabi: 3 to 4 teaspoons wasabi paste
Dried cherry: Simmer 1/4 cup dried cherries in 1/2 cup water till soft. Puree and add to mustard vinaigrette. Sweeten with 1 to 2 tablespoons maple syrup.

Just about any combination of cooked or raw vegetables will become wildly appealing with this dressing. I like it with avocado and cucumbers.

Asian sesame/rice vinegar vinaigrette
8 to 10 servings

1/4 cup Japanese brown rice vinegar
2 tablespoons Japanese soy sauce—I like San-J shoyu
1/4 cup Asian (roasted) sesame oil

Whisk together the ingredients.

You can find the TLC Tomatoes’ hydroponic bibb lettuce in grocery stores now. Its sweet tenderness is perfect for these rolls. Experiment with other combinations of fillings.

Fresh herb and salad spring rolls
4 servings—about 8 rolls

Mustard Vinaigrette

1 large head Bibb lettuce, leaves separated but left whole, washed and dried
1 cup assorted torn basil and flat leaf parsley leaves, washed and dried
2 pounds asparagus or green beans, trimmed and steamed till tender (about 5 minutes)
2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, grilled and sliced into thin strips
1 package Thai dried rice paper wrappers

Prepare the vinaigrette and set it aside. Place a pan of warm water on your counter. Wet and wring out two clean cotton towels. Place one on the counter. Arrange the lettuce, herbs, asparagus, and chicken on a platter. Quickly immerse two rice paper wrappers in the water and let them sit until softened, about 1 minute. Keep the remaining wrappers covered in plastic or in their bag while you work.

Pull the wrappers out of the water and let them drain for a few seconds. Lay both side by side on your cotton towel and cover with the second towel. Blot well. Lay one wrapper on top of the other. If your wrappers are round, fold over the right side. Press to break the rib of a lettuce leaf and lay it on the bottom of the wrapper parallel to your counter edge with the top of the leaf overlapping the folded edge. The end of the lettuce leaf should be at least 1 1/2 inches from the opposite unfolded edge. Layer an eighth of the parsley and basil, asparagus, and grilled chicken breast strips over the lettuce leaf.

Fold up the bottom of the wrapper and tuck the unfolded left edge over. Continue to roll, as tightly as you can without tearing the wrapper. If the wrapper tears, simply lay it on top of another soaked and blotted wrapper and continue to roll. Lay the completed roll on its seam side into a pan and cover with plastic wrap. Finish seven remaining rolls. Cut the rolls in half and serve them on a plate drizzled with some of the vinaigrette.

These rolls are ideal traveling companions. You can make them ahead but be sure to wrap them well. If the wrappers dry out they become tough.

©2003Nancy K. Allen, CCP

This is my northern Michigan adaptation of the classic French Nicoise salad with tuna, green beans, tomatoes, and olives—all food found in or near Nice. It is a composed or arranged salad.

Michigander salad
Four servings

Mustard vinaigrette
Pickled forest leeks, finely chopped
1 cup drained and rinsed canned Great Northern white beans
1 large head hydroponic Bibb lettuce, whole leaves, clean and dry
8 small new redskin potatoes, steamed till tender, about 10 minutes
1 pound smoked whitefish, skinned, boned, and flaked
1 pound asparagus or green beans, steamed
1 large tomato, cut into wedges

Mix the vinaigrette and leeks together to taste. Toss the white beans with some of the vinaigrette. Slice the potatoes while warm and toss them with some of the vinaigrette and set the remainder aside.

Arrange the Bibb leaves on a platter. Arrange the beans, whitefish, asparagus, potatoes and tomato decoratively over them. Serve with the vinaigrette.

©2003Nancy K. Allen, CCP

Individual pizzas with shrimp and chopped salad
Four servings

Frozen pizza dough or 4 small prepared frozen pizza crusts, thawed
Extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves finely minced garlic
2 tomatoes, thinly sliced into rounds
Vinaigrette
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper

18 to 24 large cooked shrimp, shelled
2 cups clean, sliced arugula or baby spinach
3 to 4 tablespoons toasted walnuts

Preheat your oven to 425F. Divide the dough into four equal balls. Shape each into a disk that is 1/4 inch thick and 6 inches or so round with thicker edges for a 1 inch crust. Place the pizza disks on an oiled sheet pan and then brush the dough with olive oil. Divide the garlic and sprinkle it on the pizza. Cover the garlic with tomato slices and salt. Bake the pizza rounds until golden, about 10 to 15 minutes.

Whisk the vinaigrette together and season it with salt and pepper. Dice the shrimp into large pieces and toss them with the salad greens and the vinaigrette to taste. When the pizzas come from the oven place them on plates and top each with the salad mixture. Garnish them with walnuts and serve.

©2003Nancy K. Allen, CCP

Spicy Thai chicken salad

4 servings
Sauce
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon lime juice
1 tablespoon oil
1/2 teaspoon palm sugar or maple syrup
1/2 teaspoon Thai chilli paste or red curry paste

1 pound boneless skinless chicken breast, grilled and finely sliced
3 scallions, finely minced
1 medium carrot, shredded
1/3 cup finely shredded Thai or Italian basil
cilantro leaves
1/2 head Romaine leaves

Prepare the sauce. Taste it and adjust it to your liking. Toss the chicken with the sauce, scallions, carrots, and herbs. Arrange the Romaine on a platter and top with the chicken salad. OR finely shred the Romaine and toss it with the chicken mixture. Garnish with cilantro leaves.

Raeeda's fetoush salad

Sumac dressing
1/4 cup each: olive oil and fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon sumac powder, available at Middle Eastern stores
salt and pepper to taste--optional

2 cups thinly sliced red onions
3 cups lightly packed mint leaves or Romaine, washed, dried and torn
1 cup parsley leaves, washed and dried
2 medium tomatoes, wedged or coarsely chopped
1 pita, toasted and torn

Whisk all the ingredients of the dressing together and set aside. Prepare the salad ingredients. Toss the onions, mint or Romaine, parsley and tomatoes with the dressing. Top with bits of toasted pita. Pass a small bowl of sumac powder for each diner to sprinkle on his or her salad, if desired.

The sumac is slightly sour and somewhat fruity flavored. It makes a wonderful dressing for any summer vegetable salad. You could also toss this salad with chopped romaine.

City Kitchen tabouleh

Yields about 2 quarts

2 cups fine cracked wheat bulgar
2 cups boiling water
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 large tomato, medium dice, about 2 cups (or roasted tomato)
1 large bunch flat leaf parsley, coarsely chopped, big stems removed
2 1/2 to 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon salt, more to taste
4 whole scallions, finely chopped
2 cups peeled, seeded and finely diced cucumber
OPTIONAL: 1/2 cup torn mint leaves

Mix the cracked wheat and boiling water in a large mixing bowl and cover. Set it aside for 15 minutes or until the water is absorbed. Fold in the remaining ingredients to the cracked wheat bulgar. Allow the tabouleh to rest in the refrigerator. Taste before serving and add more salt and lemon if necessary.

Wheat-free tabouleh: substitute 2 cups quinoa for the cracked wheat that you have simmered for 15 minutes in 2 1/2 to 3 cups boiling water.

Summer cucumber and smoked salmon pasta salad

8 to 10 servings

1 pound large tube pasta
salt
6 to 8 small to medium redskin potatoes
1 large English cucumber, peeled or fresh Kirbys, peeled and diced
About 3 peeled ears of corn—2 cups corn kernels
1/2 pound smoked salmon, diced into 1/2 or so inch pieces
2 to 4 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh dill
Mustard vinaigrette

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Use cold water--hot water has sediment. When the water boils, salt it well, enough so the water tastes gently salty. Add the pasta and boil it until it's tender but not soft and mushy. Use the box directions as a general guideline--NOT gospel. No, flipping it on the wall to see if it will stick is NOT a good indicator of doneness. Your teeth are.

While the pasta is merrily bubbling, prepare the vegetables. Cube the potatoes and cucumbers into half inch or so cubes. Make them precise and pretty. Cutting techniques are what separate home cooks from professional ones. Next, cut the corn from the cob. If you want less mess, stand the ear of corn with the stem side down into a large mixing bowl. Cut down the ear from top to bottom and the kernels will fall into the bowl not on your floor. Keep the potatoes in a bowl of water until you cook them so they don't turn black.

Set up a steamer and steam the potatoes and then the corn until tender. The potatoes will take about 5 to 10 minutes depending on how well you did cutting them into uniform sized pieces. The corn will take a minute or so. Chop the dill--we don't want a lot of large stem but some smaller stem is okay. Don't overcook the vegetables--only till tender. Cool them.

When your pasta is done, pour it through a colander and immediately run cold water over it to stop its cooking. Now if you were in Italy and performed this heinous act, you'd be run out. But we're in America and making a pasta salad, not pasta so it's okay. Toss everything together with vinaigrette to taste. Season with salt and pepper if desired.

Posted by editor at 06:35 PM | Comments (0)

June 15, 2006

Summer Entertaining Series: Hors d’oeuvres

By Nancy Krcek Allen
Sun contributor

Hors d’oeuvres are celebration and entertainment rolled into one or two bites. Seventeenth century French chefs borrowed the term “hors d’oeuvre” from architects who used it to designate the structures not connected to a main building. Hors d’oeuvres may be food that is outside of a main meal, but that doesn’t mean they can’t satisfy as a full meal might. With their dazzling shapes, colors and big flavor hors d’oeuvres enchant the eye while they fill the belly. Though these tasty bites are eye-catching, they must still be easy for guests to eat while standing, holding a glass of wine and conversing; no greasy edges, falling bits of garnish or bigger than two bites.

It’s appropriate that the term “hors d’oeuvre” came from architecture. Many of them look as if they came from Frank Gehry’s careful, playful hands. Hors d’oeuvres, as simple as a dish of olives or pickled onions or as complex as a platter of architecturally designed delicacies, can present endless variations on seven basic categories of creative method. These are: stacking or topping as with canapés, tea sandwiches, mini blini and bruschetta; rolling as with spring rolls, sushi and grape leaves; stuffing as with mini tomatoes or dumplings; skewering as with satay or shish kabob; dips and dippers like black bean salsa with corn chips or olive tapenade with grissini; baked things such as focaccia, mini quiches and cheese puffs (gougere) and finally, small pieces such as assorted olives, pretzels and nuts.

Summer entertaining and hors d’oeuvres were made for each other. You can design hors d’oeuvres ahead, their variety can please any taste and most are perfect for lighter summer diets. Try tea sandwiches spread with goat’s cheese and herbs, grilled shiitake mushrooms basted with olive oil and sea salt or whole wheat tortillas spread with guacamole, cilantro and baked chicken, rolled and sliced into small rounds. Whole wheat tortillas make wonderful mini tart shells when briefly heated then cut out to three-inch circles, brushed with olive oil or melted butter and pressed into a mini muffin pan. Bake them at 350F until lightly colored. Fill them with a mushroom ragu or a dab of baba ganoush.

A fascinating hors d’oeuvre table will cause a bottleneck of gawkers. If your repertoire is getting worn, here are some hints to liven it up.

1. We eat first with our eyes. Each hors d’oeuvre should be beautiful and tasty, whether it is fancy or homey.

2. Choose a varied group of hors d’oeuvres. Make sure each contrasts cooking methods, colors, textures, shapes and flavors. For instance, you might put out a bowl of marinated green and black olives, bruschetta topped with tomatoes and parsley, shrimp wrapped in cucumber, and meatballs on small skewers.

3. Collect lively plates and bowls. Presentation is second only to flavor. Look for Asian style square plates and odd shapes and colors to brighten your table.

4. Buy a piping bag with a few tips, several sets of round and shaped cutters and a mini muffin or tartlet pan. Scour Asian markets for skewers and food items to inspire spontaneous hors d’oeuvre creations.

5. Prepare dips, crackers, breadsticks and butters ahead and freeze them. Martha Stewart’s Hors D’oeuvres Handbook has many excellent suggestions and recipes to aid you.

Japanese chicken rounds with teriyaki sauce
Makes about 20 to 25 pieces

2 whole (4 lobes) boneless skinless chicken breasts, butter-flied open but not separated
2 carrots, julienned and steamed until tender, 3 minutes
16 to 24 asparagus, steamed tender, 5 minutes
1 red pepper, finely julienned
Marinade
1 to 2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons freshly grated gingerroot
Teriyaki sauce
1/4 cup sake or sherry
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup mirin
2 tablespoons maple syrup or sugar

Gently pound the breasts and flatten them to a uniform 1/4 inch thickness. Take care not to create any holes. Marinate the breasts in the soy and gingerroot for 15 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 400F. Remove breasts from marinade, pat dry and lay flat. Lay 1/4 the carrots and 3 green beans, and a few of the red pepper strips across the long way on each breast. Roll the breast up firmly. Repeat until all four are done. Place them onto a cookie sheet or baking pan, seam side down. Place them in the oven and bake until they ooze a clear juice and register 160F on an instant read thermometer, about 20 to 30 minutes.

Mix the teriyaki sauce ingredients together in a saucepan. Lower the heat and simmer until it is slightly syrupy. Slice the rolls into 1/4 inch thick coins. Place on wooden skewers. Pour the teriyaki sauce into a small bowl. Serve it on a platter with the chicken rounds.

Negi means round and maki means roll in Japanese.

Grilled beef negimaki with Korean galbi sauce
25 to 30 rolls

2 pounds sirloin tip roast
3 to 4 bunches scallions
Sauce
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup mirin
1/2 cup Chinese rice wine or sherry
honey, brown sugar or sugar to taste
optional: chile paste to taste

toasted sesame seeds
canola oil for brushing

Place the sirloin tip into the freezer until it’s firm but not hard frozen, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Meanwhile, prepare the scallions. Bring a pot of water to boil. Cut the scallions into 2 inch lengths. Cut the thicker white part in half the long way. Blanch the scallions until just tender, about 1 minute. Run cold water over them and drain. Blot them dry in paper toweling. Set them aside.

Mix together the sauce ingredients and set aside. Slice meat very thinly on a meat slicer across the grain. Alternately get your butcher to do this for you. Cut the meat into approximately 2 inch by 3 inch rectangles. Layer meat into a hotel pan and brush with a little of the sauce. If your meat is already cut, do this part ahead and refrigerate the beef to marinate while you deal with the scallions.

With the narrowest end of a beef slice near you and parallel to the counter edge, lay a couple pieces of scallion parallel to the bottom of the beef slice and your counter edge. Sprinkle a little sesame seed inside. Roll up the beef and set in another pan seam side down. If you're worried that they won't stay together you may resort to toothpicks when no one is looking. Brush the beef rolls with more sauce and set aside in the refrigerator until you are ready for them. Heat a grill or grill pan. Brush the beef rolls with a little canola oil and grill briefly until medium rare. Serve while warm.

If you’re Eastern European, vary this recipe with black bread, cream cheese and smoked salmon with cucumber and dill.

Shrimp and cucumber canapes
Makes 24

1/2 cup white wine
Stems from dill below
1 tablespoon Kosher salt
12 medium shrimp, thawed and de-veined but not peeled
6 slices very thin white sandwich bread (3” by 3 12/”) (Pepperidge Farm)
3 ounces lemon shallot butter, room temperature
1 English seedless cucumber
1 small bunch dill

Pour the wine, dill stems, 2 cups water and salt into a saucepan. Bring it to a boil. Add the shrimp, cover and turn off the heat. Allow the shrimp to sit until they turn opaque, about 1 minute. Drain the shrimp, cool and peel them. Slice them in half lengthwise and remove any debris from their backs.

Cut the crusts off the bread and spread one side of each with the herb butter. With a sharp vegetable peeler, peel, then slice the cucumber lengthwise into long, thin strips. Place the cucumber overlapping to cover the butter. Cut each bread slice into 4 squares. Top each square with one half shrimp and a dill sprig.

Herb Butter

Mash together 3 ounces (6 tablespoons) unsalted room temperature butter with 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice, 1/4 teaspoon lemon zest and 1 tablespoon minced shallots. Season butter with salt and pepper. Keeps refrigerated two weeks, frozen, several months.

Smoked salmon and cream cheese rolls on black bread
Yields about 30 pieces

1/2 pound cream cheese at room temperature
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted and chopped roughly
2 tablespoons finely chopped chives
1 tablespoon finely chopped lemon zest
salt to taste
1/2 pound thinly sliced smoked salmon
1 small square loaf very thinly sliced black bread--at least 15 slices
fresh dill or chives for garnish

Cream the cream cheese with the lemon juice until fluffy. Stir in the nuts, chives, lemon zest and salt to taste. Scrape mixture into a piping bag without a tip or with a very wide plain tip.

Place a long piece of plastic wrap on the work surface. Lay the salmon down in a single layer on top of it to form a 3" wide by 6" or 7" long rectangle of salmon. Pipe a six or seven inch long and 3/4" wide log down the bottom third of the salmon rectangle.

Use the plastic wrap to lift the long edge of the salmon over the cream cheese log. Tuck it tight and pull out the plastic wrap. Roll the salmon all the way--with the plastic wrap as helper. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate to firm the cheese before cutting for one hour or more.

Cut each slice of black bread into 2 triangles. Slice the salmon rolls into 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick rounds and place on the black bread. Top with a piece of dill or chive.

©2000Nancy K. Allen, C.C.P.

EXTRA RECIPES

Gougere
Makes 6 to 7 dozen

8 tablespoons or one stick unsalted butter
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 large eggs
1/2 cup grated Gruyere cheese

Preheat your oven to 425F. Line two sheet pans with parchment. Pour one cup of water, butter and salt into a small but heavy saucepan and bring mix to a boil. Remove the saucepan from the heat and dump the flour in all at once. Stir vigorously until mixture is smooth.

Return the pot to the heat and cook the mixture until it begins to leave a film on the bottom of the pot, about one minute. Scrape the dough into a mixer bowl and set it aside to cool for 5 minutes. Beat the eggs in one at a time until the dough is smooth and just falls from a spoon. Fold in the grated cheese.

Scrape the dough into a piping bag fitted with a large plain or star tip. Pipe the dough in small, even blobs about 1/2 to 1 inch in diameter, onto the prepared sheet pans. Moisten your finger with water and smooth out the tops of the blobs. Bake the puffs for 12 minutes and reduce the heat to 375F. Bake them until deeply golden, about another 10 to 15 minutes. Slice a puff open to check. It should be firm and cooked on the inside, not doughy or sticky. Poke them through their middles and return them to the oven if they are not finished. When done, let them cool. You may freeze gougere for up to a month. Slice off their tops and fill with tasty things and put the top back on. Leave out the cheese if you wish to use them for sweet things.

Spinach phyllo triangles

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 red onions, finely sliced
1 ten ounce box of chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
2 tablespoons fresh chopped dill leaves
8 ounces feta cheese
salt and pepper to taste
24 sheets (about one pound) phyllo dough sheets
1 cup melted butter
1 cup fine dry breadcrumbs

In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium to low heat. Add the onions and cook them covered until they are soft and tender, about 20 minutes. Uncover them and raise the heat to high.